Friday’s Fabulous Financial
THE ART OF NEGOTIATING
…when buying a new(er) car
In November 2003, I purchased a fully loaded 2004 Honda Accord EX. I can’t explain it, but for many years this was the car of my dreams. I looked at many other cars, but that shiny black Honda with the tan interior was just calling my name (lol). I know buying brand new wasn’t the most financially prudent thing to do, but I did it and I don’t regret it. My previous car was 12 years old with over 175,000 miles, and I plan to keep this one until the metal dissolves into heap of black dust!!
So here’s the story (and some tips) from “SingleMa’s Car Buying Experience.”
::WARNING:: This is a long post but I hope you find it useful.
These are the exact steps I followed. I think all of them were beneficial, but it only works if you’re not in desperate need for a car because the entire process takes time. Helpful Tip: Do NOT wait until your car leaves you stranded on the side of the road before deciding to replace it.
- Get your credit straight. Shopping for a car with jacked up credit will get you raked over the coals. Imagine paying $600/month for a Chevy NOVA while your neighbors pay the same thing for their Lexus. No offense to anyone who’s ever owned a NOVA, but DAMN!
ok, back to my story…
- I sought financing FIRST. I went to my credit union and completed an online application. I chose a credit union because their rates are usually more competitive than the mainstream banks. Within 3 days, I was pre-approved and they sent me a blank check that was valid for 60 days. Helpful Tip: The dealers “may” have better financing and it’s ok to consider theirs too, but it helps to already have your financing in place for leverage during negotiations. If you decide to go with dealer financing, do so AFTER you’ve agreed on price.
- I went to three dealerships and test drove several different cars. I knew I wanted a Honda, but I like to cover all my bases. I considered an SUV, a Beamer, a Mazda 6, and a Camry. Other than the Beamer, which was out of my comfort zone on price, none of them compared to the Honda (in my opinion). It had the smoothest ride, the sleekest look, the best safety features, and the price wouldn’t put me in the poor house. After a 20 minute test drive, I was hooked! This confirmed my long lost love for a Honda. Helpful Tip: Before you test drive, the sales person will ask to see your driver’s license. Standard procedure, so that’s cool. Show it to him (note: I’m not assuming all car sales people are men) but don’t let him take it out of your hands. He’ll try to make a copy of it and give you some B.S. line like this is the law (why do people get scared when they hear that word?) yada yada, but it’s all CRAP. There is a law called the Patriot’s Act that requires businesses to confirm identity, but this is NOT required to test drive a car!! Never let the dealer hold your driver’s license. Stand firm and say “NO! I’m licensed to drive and that’s all you need to know.” If they continue to press for it, LEAVE. They will use your personal info to run your credit, which they will use to determine what you can afford and how to plan their approach to make the highest commission. Ya didn’t know a business could pull your credit without your social? HA! You’d be amazed. They only need 2 or more data points (i.e. name, address, employer, phone number, ss#, etc.) and your consumer history is in their hands. Is this legal, hmm? Can it be done, YES!
- After a few test drives, I decided on the make/model I wanted with the ‘must have’ and ‘like to have’ features. Trust, there’s a difference. Take a notepad if you have to. I also noted the sticker price of the car and the prices of the added features. Helpful Tip: Invoice and MSRP are two different things…learn it! Deciding what you want should be up to YOU, not the salesperson, not the finance company, not your friends, etc. The sales person will tell you what they have “available” on the lot and the finance person will tell you the maximum “they” can finance for you. Also, do NOT be a monthly payment buyer. Choosing a car based on the monthly payment you think you can afford is a setup for disaster. Before you know it, you’ll be upside down on the loan, life will happen and you’ll no longer be able to afford the payment, or the allure of that shiny metal will soon wear off and that payment won’t look so nice. Therefore, it is better to consider your own needs, how long you plan to keep the car, what the car will be used for, the quality of the car, safety features, how much value it will hold over its life, and most importantly, total cost of ownership (i.e. cost of car, cost of financing, taxes, tags, insurance, depreciation, gas, maintenance, etc.).
- After I decided what type of car I wanted, I went home and started my web search. Don’t ya just love the internet? It’s a wealth of information at your finger tips. During my web search, I stumbled upon a site called carbuyingtips.com and used it for guidance throughout the entire process. I found this site to be extremely helpful because it tells you about all the dealer scams, the junk fees, and it also provides you with a nice little spreadsheet midway the page to help you determine a reasonable price you should pay for the car. Helpful Tip: Do NOT make spare of the moment decisions while you’re at the dealership!! The salesperson will give you the “come back to my office so we can talk” line. They’re trained, they’re professionals, and they want to make a sale RIGHT NOW. They also prey on your emotions when you get excited about the car you just test drove. Do NOT do it! Simply say, “no thanks, I have to go home and thinking about it.” Take his card and peace out!
- Then I did some comparison shopping at the Honda website, cars.com, edmunds.com, and autoweb.com. Market research is important for you to determine the most reasonable price. I also used this spreadsheet to run the numbers and come up with the maximum cost I was willing to pay.
- Then I went to a dealer’s website (it doesn’t matter which one - choose any one but preferably in your region) and found the contact info for a internet sales rep. Almost all dealers have them. In an email, I told the internet sales rep exactly what I wanted (provide as many details as you can - the more, the better). I also asked if they had it in their inventory and the sales price. Helpful Tip: Dealers have sales reps whose primary job is to respond to internet inquiries. Be patient and be thorough. Do not provide any personal information but give them just enough about your desired purchase to let them know you’re not spam and you’re not wasting their time. Also, if they do not have the car you want in their inventory, do NOT let a dealer get a car for you from another location. Why pay the transfer fee? Go get it yourself! Unless you have a special request that must come directly from the manufacturer.
- If the price they wanted was above the price in my spreadsheet, I negotiated entirely via email. To let him know I was a serious a buyer, I was even willing to show him my spreadsheet to justify my counter offer. I let him know that I would be paying for the car with cash, and this usually moves the negotiations along so you can seal the deal. Helpful Tip: Keep all communication in writing. They will try to get you to come inside the showroom but tell them NO!! Some phone calls may be necessary but I don’t recommend them. This way, they don’t know who you are. They don’t know your race, your sex, your financial status, etc.. So in essence, this minimizes potential discrimination and any unfair ASSumptions. Let your written words speak for you.
- After getting the best offer from dealer #1, I contacted other dealers (you should contact at least 2 more) and asked the same opening questions. When they offered me a price, I made note of any cost in my spreadsheet that beat the previous offers, but if they were higher in any other areas, I started playing the other dealers against each other. I even showed one of them proof of the other dealer’s offer. He wanted me to fax him a copy, but I was cool with that. Sometimes, no matter what your other offers are, a dealer will only go so low in price. That is what you want because this is when you know you’ve gotten them down to fair market value.
- I selected a dealer and went to meet the salesman in person. With me, I took my pre-approved check, my market research, my previous offers, and a few other docs*. When the salesman came out to the showroom, he was shocked that it was me he was talking to through email. After the initial amusement, he kept asking me if I was a lawyer and tried to break me down with flattery. I love a compliment just like any other woman (especially if you’re calling me fabulous LOL), but I just smiled and redirected the conversation to my car. It wasn’t until he showed me his price on the sales contract that I told him I had a trade in. Helpful Tip: Avoid the small talk if possible. Stay focused! Getting too personal makes you lower your guard, which could result in irrational and emotional decisions. Also, if you tell them upfront that you have a trade in, they’ll just pad the price of the car to wash out what they CLAIM they’re giving you for your trade in. It’ll be a very high number so you can think you’re getting a good deal on your trade when you’re really not. It’s B.S. and I call it when I see it. Wait until you agree on price to talk about your trade-in.
- *Other docs I took with me were printouts for the estimated value of my trade-in. I used kelley blue book and NADA to get the estimated value of my trade. Helpful Tip: Have more than one estimated value from more than one source.
- Back to the dealer…with agreed upon sales price already established, I asked what they were willing to give me for my trade-in. They’ll be pissed because you didn’t tell them up front but who cares. They might take their sweet time inspecting your trade-in and come back with some BS (read: UBER low) number. They wanted to give me $150. LMAO! PULEEZE!! Tell them you’ve done your research and you know your car is worth $xx. They’ll ask where you got that number from (I showed them a printout with the HIGHEST value) to which they responded “that price is ridiculous!” They even claimed the value I presented was for private sale only so I would NEVER get a dealer to pay that much for my scrap (lol - that’s what he told me for real). Helpful Tip: Be prepared for that outburst, so be sure to get private sale, retail sale, and trade-in values.
- I then asked if they had a counter offer because their 1st offer was “ridiculous” and too low. Use the same words they use, but turn it on them. Then they countered at $250. I checked my lowest value and made a mental note that it was $500. Ok, so we were still $250 apart from the lowest I’d be willing to accept. Helpful Tip: When negotiating, words are not always necessary. Body language speaks volumes. If the offer on the table isn’t acceptable, express it with as few words as possible and wait for a better number.
- I stood firm and was willing to walk. I told him this after flashing my pre-approved check for effect. These were my exact words, “what you see here is cash money, I just need to know who to make the check out to.” Then the sales person will fake like they have to get permission from their sales manager. I love this!! I prefer to talk to the decision makers anyway. Don’t waste my damn time!! I told him to handle his bizness but make it quick because my time was precious. It didn’t hurt that it was the end of the month either. Dude needed to meet his quota. Furthermore, I wasn’t taking $250 for my car! Helpful Tip (added, thanks MzNewAgenda!): Don’t be afraid to walk away. Dealers are more flexible when they see you have options. You’d be amazed at how accommodating they become if you’re not pressed.
- The sales manager came into the office and told me they couldn’t offer more than $250. My response: blank stare, no flinch, then “ok, thank you for your time. I’ll try the dealer down the street,” while screaming in my head, “DAMN DAMN DAMN I want that car!” As I started buttoning my coat, he stopped me and said “well hold on, we’ll see what we can do.” He left to make a quick phone call (so he said), then came back to tell me they have auctions on Tues/Wed evenings for old junk cars they take as trade-ins. Ok, I was a little offended that they first called my car scrap, then considered it “old junk.” Well, I never…!! But then again, the shoe DID fit. *shrug* I still wanted at least $500 for my junk too!! Helpful Tip: Patience is a virtue. Do not accept what you originally considered unacceptable. Competition is a lovely thing!
- Reluctantly, I agreed to take $250 for my trade with an agreement to receive the difference if the car sold for a higher price at auction. In the agreement, I also wanted a copy of the actual bill of sale from the auction. I went back the following Thursday and found that my car sold for $550, and they wrote me a check for the $300 difference. Helpful Tip: Evaluate your risks. The car may not sell for very much at auction and it may not sell at all, but at least you know you’re getting the fair market value for your trade-in. If the junk dealers at auction don’t want it, then you know it was really junk (lol). Be firm with what you want, but flexible enough to consider other options. Get all agreements in writing, and most importantly, follow through!
After doing all of the above, choosing where to buy my car was easy. Now on to the hard part…
It took me a span of approximately 2 months to do all of this. I was willing to pay $22k with $500 for my trade-in. In the end, I paid $20k for a car with an original sticker price of $26.5k and received $550 for my trade-in that had an original offer of $150. That’s a $6.5k savings and $400 profit!! This post is already too long, so I won’t even go into details about the FREE weather resistant mats and the $100 gas card I received because they didn’t have time to “properly” detail my new car before I drove it off the lot.
So in summary, here are a few things to remember…
and last but not least…
BTW, I apologize for the late post. SingleMa had the day off so she slept in this morning. I hope this post helps to make up for my tardiness.
Stay Fabulous!
Peace & Blessings
-SM
Work to achieve, not to acquire.
And as always, BE FABULOUS!

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21 comments:
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ok miss thing I guess I’ll forgive you this time..
I’ll definetly keep this in mind when I am car shopping
great points…I have one thing to add:
They(dealers) are more flexible if they see you are willing to walk away.
Thank you for the insightful and helpful post. I don’t know if I have what it takes to bargain like that, but I think I can at least do the email part :).
Great post. A few questions though…what is your monthly payment (i hope I’m not being too nosey), and how long did you finance it for?
me *bowing down* Well thank you Your Highness. I will be forever indebted to you. lol
mz *shakin my head* Mmm Hmm
franky Oh sure you can. Imagine saving at least $2,000 or more, then think about how long it takes you to earn $2,000 at your job. Do you think you can you do it now?
robyn I wouldn’t say you are being nosey but I don’t see how that will add value to the post.
Go SM, go SM!
Car shopping is officially on hold until I leave the City. I would be a heroin addict to take on the added cost of gas and window repair treatments from the several attempted stealings that are bound to happen.
But thanks anyoo!
I now know where to go when I’m ready:)
Have a great weekend!
Please don’t worry about your post being too long! I was riveted. This is exactly what I need to know. I’ve been toying with the idea of buying a car…and this is a great initiation post.
What’s funny is how much of it is the same as buying property. Getting financing up front, doing a bunch of research ahead of time, being prepared to walk away, getting everything in writing. I had to do all that and more when I bought my apartment. This makes me feel more prepared to buy a car. Thanks!
Awesome post. I’ve read similar things about buying a car, but never one so comprehensive. This is one of the most important things to negotiate since you do have the ability to walk away. Many dealerships have the same or almost the same car which means you really can get the same thing (whereas a lot of houses are different)
I am grateful for this post because a car payment is one thing I never want to get trapped under again. I thought I got a good deal on Nina (my silver Altima), but you are right, I am now upside down on the loan. Still love the car, but every now and then I kick myself and I vow it will never happen again.
And thanks for posting on my site! Stay tuned, there will be a lot more!
Great advice. Thanks for the thorough post. I helped my parents buy several new cars during my post college years. It was a difficult and thoroughly unpleasant experience. With the Mazda, I had talked the salesperson down to a very reasonable price. And then sprung the trade in on him, just as you suggested. I’d prepped my dad ahead of time and told him not to take anything less than $2500 for it. Of course, he caved immediately and accepted $1500. Ahhhhhhh!!!!!! Which meant that all of my research and hard work in negotiating a sweet deal went down the tubes in that one split second. Sigh. Anyway, I’ve since learned my lesson. Now I just insist on selling their old cars myself instead of trading them in.
Great post!
I like the idea of having a loan BEFORE you go to buy the car. That way, it is a CASH deal to the dealer. You finance the purchase price of the car and the dealer can’t sneak stuff in.
If you don’t get a loan before you visit a dealer, go to Target or Office Depot and buy yourself a $30 financial calculator and LEARN HOW TO USE IT! I’m telling you, if you walk in with a calculator and start punching in numbers, it will drive them NUTS! Your goal is to find out how much they will sell you the car for, what the interest rate will be and then you calculate what the payment will be.
Financing through the dealer is scary because they try to throw in all sorts of unnecessary stuff like insurance and warranties. DON’T GET SUCKERED!
JLP
AllThingsFinancial (for now!)
hail to my sister in finance…i went car shopping over the holidays, only to decide that I am too cheap to buy a car right now, but i wanted the practice.
using your methods and more i talked the sales guy down approximately 6 grand on my car!
it was a wonderful feeling, but since I don’t really need a car, but need to purchase a house I decided to wait!
cocoa Girl, if I lived in NY, I wouldn’t own a car either. I hope this post helps you when you’re ready.
l britt I’m glad you found it useful. Some things are the same when buying a house, but the options are limited if you have your heart set on a specific home, then you have to be more flexible. However, if your credit scores are top notch and your finances look good on paper, then you can apply the same techniques when searching for a mortgage.
calgirl Thanks! I agree, you’re negotiation strategy for a car and a house is different because of the limited inventory.
debt hater Welcome! I’m glad you decided to stop by. Enjoy Ms. Nina but you know better for the next time, right?
ira Ooooh I would hate that! All of your work wasn’t in vain if you negotiated a good sales price for them. Selling your own car is a better option. I wish I would have done that.
jlp You are so right. Dealer financing will try to throw in everything but the kitchen sink. Don’t laugh when I say this, but I was up in the sales office with my laptop crunching numbers. The guy was lookin at me like I was a fool…especially when I cleared his desk to make room for my computer. He was like “WTF!” I said, sorry dude, I’m checking your numbers. LMAO!
miss ahmad A home is more important than a car. Hopefully I’ll be in mine next month. I’ve found that the same negotiation skills apply when searching for a mortgage. Whenever you get ready to do either, I wish you luck. Do ya thang sis!
I never thought about them using your DL to run your credit. thanks for the tip!
Single Ma, I thought I was the queen of bargaining. I have to humbly bow to you in my best peasant manners.
You give me hope to accomplish even more than I have down on my 5 and 10 year plans.
I will say this. At 36 years of age, it is a good thing I moved to a new town. I have worn out my welcome at every other car lot in 2 counties. I refuse to be taken for an obviouse ride and will confront them on shady tricks. With your post I can polish up my act and get an even better bargain.
My last car purchase was a used vehicle. I prayed for assistance and God’s will before and during the hunt. Through divine intervention ( one time work assignment) I ended up at a lot that had the exact car I was looking for down to the shade of paint ( THANK YOU God). I had previously run the car through KBB and was not willing to pay more than $5000 ( private sale). I NEEDED the second car for work as I drove a two seater sports car and worked with foster children, often sibling groups. I was not willing to give up my job and did not want to give up my sports car.
They had just received it as a trade in and were going to send it to a used car dealer ( I suspect just an auction).
They had ripped the person trading it in off and I knew they probaly gave a trade in of less than $500. That and the fact they had worked that right back into the price of the new car so they had the car for essentially free. Yet this was the car I wanted for functionality and gas mileage (35 mpg).
It was right at closing when I happened by this dealer and I was out of town. I cut all the chase with them and refused to talk anything but cash out the door price. They knew I was from out of town, would not be back and I was serious. Can you believe I got a car I was willing to pay $5000 for at a steal for only $2350 out the door.
I even had them back the taxes into the price and I refused to pay the $125 documentation fee. And I quote, ” There is a lady in the back who gets paid the same whether she fills out my documentation or not. Do you want to sell the car?”
They tried balking that it was killing their profit on all the concessions. I let them know I was wise to the trade in at no real cost to them deal. Again, I quote, ” You probably gave them $500 trade in on a new car. I know they paid the $500 in the price of the new car. You were going to sell this car to a dealer or send it to auction. Either way you would not have got the full $2350 wholesale price you quoted me. To get them to buy it you would have given them a discount. Right here you have a cash done deal. You get a great profit on the car and I get a great price on a car to serve foster kids. We all win. Do we have a sale?” All the manager could do was blink, look at the salesman and say,” Do it.” I gave prayers of thanks all the way home. and picked it up that weekend. They must have been either very nice or impressed with me because the car had been detailed within an inch of it’s life. ( it was sitting dirty, inside and out, behind the dealership in a fenced in area for cars that were not new enough for their used car section)
Now when it comes to my next car purchase for a more stylish personal car, I doubt I could have done the same deal. Armed with your post, I think I can get closer.
Thanks Single Ma- You are fabulous!!
WOW, i’m saving this to use when i start my purchasing journey for my G35 that i’ve been wanting for sooooo long.
great idea regarding the internet sales.
ahhh i read your post but now i am dying because the used car I REALLY REALLY want is only $300 more than the KBB value… and i want them to go down more. i wish i was better at negotiating! but live and learn i guess
amaranta - if the dealer is firm on price, consider other trade offs. What else do you want that may be equivalent to $300?
If you really want the car, don’t walk away from $300. Get creative. Do more research. Put more details on the table. Are you able to do a cash purchase? Money talks. Find another angle but stay focused on the TOTAL VALUE. Price is just one aspect of negotiating.
You can do it!
I know I’m so late reading this post…but I promise when I go to look for a car……I will be taking your post with me and doing all the research before hand..love the post…….Lynn